There are a lot of Keywords and associated Decktypes in the game. I will try to give a birds eye overview of them.
 
 
Note: Still a work in progress.
 
 

Damage Ranges, Tresholds, Buffs

It is helpfull to think of the damage ranges as dice with a bonus.
 
 
Dice
 
 
The probilities of dice are well known.
 
Asuming a basic dice with continous numbers, the average result can be quickly calculated using Minimum Roll + Maximum Roll / 2.
 
 
A 1D6 can roll 1 through 6.
 
1 + 6 = 7
 
7 / 2 = 3.5
 
 
Damage Numbers
 
A damage of 4-9 can be simply figured out, if you think of it as “1D6+3”.
 
The average of 1D6 is still 3.5. And 3.5+3 = 6.5
 
 
However the simple math from above still works as well:
 
4 + 9 = 13
 
13 / 2 = 6.5
 
 
Damage Buffs
 
Increasing the maximum damage is a flat +0.5 average.
 
Increasing the minimum damage is also a flat +0.5 average.
 
If both happen together they add for a +1 average.
 
 
Thresholds
 
With tresholds it only maters that you roll high enough – after all modifiers! As such they benefit a lot more from minimum damage then maximum damage.
 
Rooks “Striker” card is a 2-5, Threshold 4 card.
 
“Tall Striker” is a 2-7, Treshold 4.
 
“Boosted Striker” is a 2.5, Treshold 4 – but has a increased effect
 
 
For simple dice anolagies and statistics, all you need picture them like this:
 
3+ on a 1D4. The chance for this is 50%.
 
3+ on a 1D6. The chance for this is 66%
 
 
So increasing the maximum damage does improve the chances – just not by a lot.
 
A +2 Minimum damage would mean a 100% chance of making the rolls. It has a way bigger impact.
 
 
A Flat damage increase meanwhile is easiest simulated by lowering the threshold instead:
 
2+ on a 1D4 is 75%
 
2+ on a 1D6 is 83.33%
 
 
However also consider that you can increase the roll at the target – wounding and any other effect that increases damage taken will increase the minimum damage easily.
 
 
 

Rooks Battle Deck types

Most of Rooks Decktypes revolve around charges. Even those that do not use one explicitly, tend to be either full, empty or overcharged styles on the side.
 
 
When the event to change the number of charges comes up, these are the considerations:
 
Empty and Charge Countingl both can benefit from having a lot of Charges. One gains extra defense, the other gains extra filled charges to trigger off.
 
Meanwhile Overcharge benefits more from having few charges, so excess charges turn into overcharge quicker.
 
Full cards also can benefit from hitting Full state quicker- but it depends which flavor they are.
 
 
Empty
 
Rules: A empty Charge gives Rook 1 defense at the end of turn. That makes this deck slightly defensive.
 
 
Empty is the keyword for not having any Charges. This involves a lot of pistol whipping or otherwise attacking without shooting.
 
 
It will be impossible to build relevant overcharge by going this way, given that you never reach full. While there are some effects that can build overcharge directly, they seem not worth pursing with any dedication.
 
 
As you gain 1 charge/turn, it will be a slight challenge to drain those and keep on Empty.
 
The starter decks “Trigger” card is a obvious choice. However usually one of the “Blast” cards can be evolved to consume a charge as well. The important part is that they do not require charges – only use them of availible.
 
 
However, this need also gives a opportunity – the “Clicker” Graft triggers when you loose your last charge, which the Empty build is idealy hitting at least once per turn.
 
Gaining charges can work to trigger stuff like the “Clicker” more often – but it is a extreme danger of being without enough draing to actually use the empty keywords when it maters.
 
 
Marked
 
Marked is not a style, but a way to build charges by attacking. Attacking the marked guy gives you more charges.
 
 
Full
 
Rules: There is no inherent bonus to having full charges. Any bonus comes from cards or Overcharge.
 
 
Full is not realy a Deckstyle – but part of two other styles. Indeed “Full” cards come in two flavors: The Charge Counting and Overcharge styles. Be carefull to pick the right one.
 
 
Charge Counting
 
Rules: There is no inherent bonus to having full charges. Any bonus comes from cards or Overcharge.
 
 
While Charge Counting and Overcharged are related, they are still two distinct playstyles.
 
Charge Counting only requires you to reach full quickly – not to have a high consistent charge generation to get high overcharge!
 
 
Note that this Build is not about using the charges heavily – it is about having them to trigger card bonus effects often. You can use about 1 charge per turn without any issue.
 
 
Overcharged
 
Rules: When full, any additional charges turn into overcharge. Overcharge increase maximum damage by +1 per stack. Overcharge is halved every turn.
 
 
The goal with Overcharge is to get to full and then just keep building charges. Most of the Overcharge you will gain from simply never stopping to build basic charges. However there are a few dedicated cards like “Striker” and “Overheater” which build overcharge directly.
 
 
As a general rule, if you are already full, effects that gain charges are better a building overcharge then dedicated overcharge cards.
 
 
Concentration
 
Rules: Concentration increases minimum damage, but will not exceed maximum damage. Concentration is halved every time damage is taken from enemy.
 
 
Now the rules might lead you to think you have to avoid damage – but that is actually not the case! While it can be played that way, the issue with concentration is that it can only increase the damage up towards maximum damage – not beyond!
 
So there is a limit to how much concentration you really can use. There are some effects that can increase that, but for the most part there will be a effective limit to how much concentration is worth it.
 
 
This style synergizes well with overcharged, to drive home all that extra potential damage.
 
Otherwise it needs cards with a large damage ranges, to be not dependant on overcharged.
 
Tresholds cards also benefit from it, as usually 2-3 extra minimum damage is all that is needed to make them a guaranteed effect.
 
 
Burn & Scorched
 
Rules:
 
Burn applies full damage to the carrier and half damage to all it’s allies. It is halved every turn.
 
Scorched caps the loss of Burn to 2/turn, at the cost of it’s own stacks.
 
 
Unlike most games, in Griftlands Burn is a very good style to deal with bosses that summon adds. Keep putting burns onto the boss. Not only will it take full damage itself, all it’s allies receive half damage quickly removing any adds the boss spawned. Given that bosses tend to act before adds, that can actually mean the boss removes his own adds when acting.
 
 
The main limiter is that without Scorch, it is not really possible to get high amounts of stacks. So they go hand in hand.
 
To round off this deck, there are a number of “if you attack someone with burn” effects. Those naturally benefit from attacking often. “Tempered” and “Crackle” are cards that come to mind.
 
 
The biggest weakness of a burn deck, are large groups of weak enemies. Without a boss to “anchor” your stacks on, killing one mob will reset your progress at building burn. So make sure you spread out the stacks on things that will not die to allies next turn. Ideally things only die to burn before they can act, maximizing the damage they deal to their team.
 
 
Ricochet
 
Rules: When the target takes damage, a random ally takes the same damage. Loose one stack per damage event redirected.
 
 
This style overlaps a bit in use with Burn, but it also extremely distinct. So it is propably best to look at the differences to burn:
 
– it is useless against solo enemies. Burn will at least do some damage in that case – not so this one. The best it can do against those, is build stacks in case they (re)summon adds.
 
– it works realy well to clean out the adds by hittng the boss – but then you are back at a solo enemy. Hopefully your attacks will bring you to victory on their own merit.
 
– it only needs one initial stack to be effective. As a result you can focus down high priority easily and then switch around once they are done – unlike burn a dead enemy does not loose you a lot of progress
 
– the strongest case is against equal pairs of enemies. No mater which one you hit, the ally takes the same damage.
 
 
If you are going for a Ricichet build, there need to be few but powerfull attacks. They also ideally should re-apply the debuff as often as they use it. The “Kickochet” variant of “Kick” is propably the perfect example of a Ricichet card: High Damage, re-applies any used stack, but quite pricy to play.
 
 

 
 
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